Thursday, September 2, 2004 Flew from Houston, Texas to San Jose, California.
Pumped the tires up (let air out for flight) and psssssssssssssst the front tire goes. Oh well, what better place than a nice air-conditioned terminal to change a tire. It blew right at the stem, so garbage. Took the train into San Francisco, for $5.00 I covered the 45 miles it would have taken me most of the day and then I still would have had to find a campground. Got in to town, sent off a package home, ran into REI two blocks up the road (what luck), and got a new tube. And oh by the way my headset seemed loose as I rode here. It was stripped. So the lovely bike tech changed out the top nut? and all was better. They also said I could camp in the Presidio (big park on the SF side of Golden Gate Bridge). So now I had that problem fixed too. Rode through town and gears were messin' up. Finally decided they were not going to fix themselves. Asked the first person I saw if they knew where a bike shop was - yep, right there - on the next corner - again, what luck. They guy was great, threw my bike up on the stand and tightened the cables that had stretched from being new - everything had been fine in Houston it is amazing what a 4 hour flight will do to a bike. For good bike karma I tipped heavily the REI gal and bike tech #2. Made it to the Presidio and felt a bit awkward and not quite so safe to camp there. There is a big group site but I was alone and well, you know. Waited until 8:00pm or so to put up the tent and then kind of hid it in the trees. Had a beautiful sunset looking out at the ocean. Slept fine, got up bright and early Friday morn to catch the sunrise with the Golden Gate and hit the road again.
The weather is such a nice change. Not the overpowering humidity of the mid-west, east, and southwest of Houston. It is actually cool when the wind blows. Ahhhh how refreshing. Crossed over the GG taking a few pictures along the way, have a new Jack - Jack Too. Through Sasilito to Hwy 1 and some lovely big-ass hills along the way, blew out a back tire. Fortunately had just enough room to get off the road to fix it and start again. Got to Stinson Beach to look for a bike shop. When I changed the tube it seemed like the integrity of the tire was a bit whipped. Figured this was as good a time as any to get new tires. No bike shop. So used my intelligence and rotated the tires, figuring the back tire was getting way more abuse than the front. Unfortunately as I was pumping the tires up my pump broke. When in need of something always check you local Post Office or Library. I checked the Post they really couldn't help, but let me store my bags there, then the library, ahh yes I have a pump in my car. Huzzah! Now I am on my way, a patched spare but no pump. I figured I would look pitiful enough for someone to give me a ride and/or there are enough bikes along here I should be able to find a pump if I need one. No bike shop for 155miles. I only rode 43 miles today, but due to techinical difficulties I have decided that was okay. Stayed at a hiker/biker spot for $3 in Olema, CA. Quick refreshments, dinner, and a shower and hit the sack.
The next day took off early as usual. Ahh the cold, not so nice. Socks on my feet and socks on my hands and my rain jacket to fend off the cold. It soon did warm up but rode with a long sleeve shirt most of the day. Getting used to the terrain change. If you fan-folded a piece of paper and set it out on the table, kind of stretched it out a little bit - you could compare that with southern Iowa. Now squish it together a bit so the ups and downs are closer together - and then twist it. You will get a bit of an image of this part of the CA coast line. After about 20 miles it did flatten out quite a bit and I got 10 miles of nice rollers with beautiful beaches. Stopped at what was deemed the last town before the campground, 12 miles ahead. Picked up some food and beverage, took a bit of a nappy-poo in the sun and finally on my way, 12 miles to finish off the day. Oh hell, I had no idea what was ahead. Started out just dandy when I looked up - way up and saw an RV on this road probably 1000+ feet above me. Oh goody, I get to go up there. The climb really wasn't too bad. Just go between the last three gears and keep moving. And you get to bask in your accomplishment when you get to the top and look at what you just did. As I finished the first hill I said, "yes" said, not thought I do talk out-loud to myself,"I wonder how many times I get to do that?" The answer was two more times. But it was great. Each time someone would go by and cheer me on. One car even rode with me for about 40 feet and the passenger cheering me on saying, "you go girl, keep it pumpin' you are doing awesome." That was pretty sweet. Finally thought I should be getting close to the campground and there was a lovely convienece store. Ran in for some Gatorade and my arms were shaking as I tried to drink. I was a bit tired. Rolled the 3 more miles to the Campground in Jenner (the place where that couple was shot in the head - not the campground - the town). Met a nice lady from Switzerland who is also traveling on her own. She is heading South but we had a great evening together and I had the luxury of topping off the evening with a warm cup of tea - not having a stove, the warm drink was wonderful.
Sunday. Up early to be off and brave the cold. I am afraid if I wait and ride later in the day the wind will kick up and I won't be so happy. So I would rather be a little chilly for an hour in the morning and get some miles in than fight the wind for two hours in the afternoon to cover the same distance. It's weird though waking up here. All the time I have been on my bike I have enjoyed the morning birds and cicadas - even when they were soo loud they kept me awake. There are no noises here. I miss the morning song birds. The weather has been lovely, even though all the locals are complaining that it is soooooooooooo hot. Ya, they don't know hot, or maybe they don't know humidity. I am riding with a long sleeve shirt on most of the time. Today I was a bit grumpy. Hard to understand when the scenery is so beautiful, the weather great, and the terrain a fun challenge. I finally figured out I was just a bit lonely. I had spent the last three weeks with friends. Now I was back to being alone and entertaining myself. I needed time to acclimate. I was also feeling a bit disjointed. Riding through towns and not feeling like I was really meeting anyone.
And then along came Patricia and Joel. Amazing how life works in your favor. I rode to Manchester, CA a little spot off the side of the road - actually a better description is a wonderful real grocery store - veggies and everything. I wanted to get another 10miles in for the day (50+). On the map there was a campground right there and it looked as though there wasn't a campground for another 30 miles. Patricia stepped out of the grocery store to my question if she knew much about campgrounds in the area. As we pondered the map together she just looked up and said, "Oh forget that, just come to our house. Come over here and meet my husband." So after being introduced to Joel, and dog Kye, I got directions to their house, about 10miles down the road, Irish Beach. A quick search for a bottle of wine for a hostess gift and I was off. Showed up at their house a bit later, took a wonderful shower, set up in a spare bedroom and went out to help with clean up. Patricia and Joel just bought this house. It has been a bit neglected over the years and they are busy getting it up to snuff. That evening we went to a fundraiser BBQ for a local church in Point Arena. It felt weird to go backwards the 10miles I had worked so hard to achieve. What a lovely bunch of folks. I felt like the celebrity for the evening as I repeatedly heard the comment, "Oh you are one of those crazy bikers we always see. Why do you do that?" And everyone wanted to hear stories, well you know me I did my best to oblidge. Then there was Richard (self proclaimed 64) who took it upon himself to be my ego boost for the evening. His introduction of, "Ya know I don't really belong here. Forty years ago I was driving through and haven't decided if I want to stay or not." "Well, I am just riding through, Patricia and Joel adopted me for the evening." "Oh, that explains the legs." Then he continued to tell me how I was the most beautiful woman in the world. My oh my, I did finally meet his wife. Back to Irish Beach after a huge dinner, a walk on the sand to watch the sunset, back to the house, introductions to a few neighbors, a nice long philosophical talk and off to a great night's sleep.
The next morning left with a must stop at "Queenie's" for breakfast. So I did. Sat down to a lovely breaky and my journal to catch up. Amazing how a person can go from feeling a bit "out of it" to "in the zone" so quickly. Outside at the picnic table a couple was sitting behind me, we started talking and I put the journal away - it's a shame I am so shy and don't meet people very easily. They left and another couple sat down, I finally got to write away. As was packing up my bike a man out of sight made the comment, "If I was doing any better, I would get arrested." I looked at the girl behind me and said, "I don't think I could dream it any better than this." Well, that started up a whole new conversation. I quickly decided that Kimberly needed to meet Patricia. As I was passing on Patricia's email address who should show up but Patricia and Joel. So after sitting down with them while they had their breakfast, I finally got out of there around noon, four hours for breakfast - only 10 miles in for the day so far! But what a great morning and fun people to meet. Made it to the State Park 30+ miles away - I'm slowing down?! A great place to spend the eveing watching the seals bob around in the water and the changing colors in the sky as the sun sets.
Finally made it to Fort Bragg and a bicycle shop. No flat tires and the broken pump was not an issue. However, did get new tires on the bike, a new pump, and a couple new tubes for replacements - just in case. Got out of town late due to equipment issues. Made it to Westport SP at 3:00pm. The next 30 miles have been preported to be fairly incredible hills so decided to wait and save that challenge for the morning. With an early end to the day did laundry and set everything out to dry on the picnic tables, a nice brisk wind should do the trick, right? No. Climate change. There is so much moisture in the air, the dew starts to settle before the sun even thinks about going down. The next morning had no choice but to put on multiple layers of wet clothing. With the rain jacket to break the wind it worked, and then suddenly there were hills looming ahead and the cool clothing was a wonderful relief. Two big-ass hills. The first one steeper but short - not so bad. The second one not so steep but loooong. The odometer claimed 8.3 miles long and the down hill was only 4miles, I got short changed. Mileage to the state parks ahead dictated that this would be the place to stop for the day. Amazing what a difference it makes now that Labor Day has come and gone, the campgrounds are almost empty. In Leggett I met Neil, another biker. Neil is from Virginia. He biked across Virginia, Greyhound to Denver, biked to the CA coast and is now headed North. Talk about low-tech, he has a backpack strapped to the rack on his bike, no odometer or speedometer to recognize self-achievement, no peddle clips, and no bike shorts. He even carries jeans with him. Ya know how heavy jeans are? Had a wonderful evening sharing stories around the campfire and he showed me how to make a stove out of two beer cans!
The next day left Leggett through Garberville and on to Avenue of the Giants. A couple stopped me in Garberville while I was eating lunch to talk. They had just biked the Oregon coast a few weeks ago. They gave me copies of maps they had found with alternate routes to 101. Nice! It is wonderful how everyone watches out for everyone else and is so helpful. I am amazed when I talk to people and they say they would be scared. I have found nothing but nice people wherever I have gone. Hwy 101 in California has a great shoulder but too many trucks and cars, not the most fun route, soon off it and on to Avenue of the Giants and the majesty of the Redwoods. They are so big it is hard to imagine what was going on in the world when they first started to grow. Rode to Weott that evening and met Paul as I entered the campground. Paul is another one of these low-tech guys. He has the metal baskets you see people riding around in town with. He has everything strapped on - about 80lbs worth. Paul lives on his bike, year around. Unlike me who was just living off my bike for the summer. He is on his way to Quartzite, AZ apparently RV town in the winter. He makes jewelery and will be selling it there. Although traveling all the way to Arizona Paul is doing it the smart way. He uses the city busses to cover miles, putting his bike on the front racks. He uses his bike to link the towns together. Pretty smart.
Up early the next morning to get to Scotia and catch the city bus to McKinleyville. A 70+ mile stretch with no campgrounds, I took Paul's advice and took the bus to cover some of the miles. Rode to Trinidad and froze my arse off. The coastal fog was in and no matter how many layers I put on I didn't have enough to keep warm. These people have obviously acclimated as they are running around in tank-tops and shorts just fine. On to Cresent City the next day for another round of GooseBumps and a look at the weather. The rain is coming in. Decided to call it quits, head home and back to reality - maybe even a job??!!! A looonngg bus ride to Tacoma and home.