When I left Atlanta snuggled warm and dry in a Greyhound bus I was thinking wahat terrible luck I was having with the weather. When I finished my last email in Dover, TN a huge storm opened up (it was a doozy) and I was again thinking what terrible luck. However, my brain finially kicked into gear as I realized I have had fantastic luck. Everytime a storm has been brewing I have been inside, safe and dry. I have yet to be drenched, hit by lighting, or baked with 110degree heat. My tent works wonderfully the night it did rain, and I stayed nice and dry. So a bit of a reality check.I need to say a huge thank you to all the kind wishes and prayers for my butt. So far I have avoided the much dreaded bike rash.
I left Dover when the TV weather people finally decided that the SEVERE storm warning had pretty much passed our way, and with the blessing of the libraians and their assurance that the next wave wouldn't happen until around 10:00 that night I took off. I made another 20 miles, passed into Kentucky, and set up my tent at the Visitors Center. 15 minutes later the lightening started showing off. I jumped inside and watched the flashes through the walls of the tent. I didn't get hit and didn't die, just in case you were all wondering.
The next day, I laid my stuff out to dry on the grass behind a Microtel Hotel. Well, the manager didn't like that very much and called the Sheriff on me. He however was very nice and just asked me to pack everything up - no problem it was dry by that time anyway. It always amazes me that people won't just come over and talk with you if they have a problem. Like me riding my bicylce is an imposing threat of any kind. Well...I could lift up my arm and give a whiff of my pit that might be a bit imposing. Had a great ride into Paducah, TN the cars, trucks, and truckers were so polite. It got so that I was tired of waving thank you when I knew they went out of their way to be carefull. Had a bit of bike work done - nice people just fit me in right away - and was off to cross the border to Illinois. Spent the night at a state park and had a shower!!!
The next morning up early and off to enjoy the sights of the great state of Illinois. We are not in Tennessee any more. The hills have flattened incredibly - corn and soybean fields galore - and you can see forever, well at least a really long way. Had a great break around 10:00am with some road crew guys. They were getting a break while the engineers had a talk - they invited me to stop and share some coffee, and of course some stories. Then off to find the most fun rolling hills. I did have phone service so needed to catch up on a few things. I ended up in the middle of a cemetery - that's where the signal worked - and had a lovely phone interview with Stadium HS (this would be a semester job - thus encouraging my ski bummedness for the winter). When done jumped back on the bike. 30 seconds later I drove off the side of the road, and started ripping my clothes off. I thought I was going insane. My gut was felt all prickly, yet nothing was there. So I am jumping around slapping myself and trying to be somewhat modest on the side of the road. I finally decided I couldn't find anything so got dressed and went on my way. This would be referred to as a typical Chigger attack. Don't sit on the grass. The bites ended up fine by the way, I think I sweated the poison out?? OH the glorious end of the day. Ya, we are definately out of TN. The flat Mississippi River Valley - at least 30+ miles of it, and a tail wind (thanks Jim for the wishes on that one). I cruised out those miles at a fair 18 mph pace.YA(79.2miles) Today, July 9th a great ride into the town of Chester - however when you get spoiled by the flats someone should warn you before you get to the hills again. It was a bit of a shock, how fast I forget.
I am now in "Water Tower Country" I know every town has water towers. But now that I am officially in the Mid-West they tower (ha) over the towns. It is a nice visual that you are getting close to town when you see the water tower off in the distance. Some are pretty special. The houses in Nashville were made of brick. There was even a billboard in Nashville that said, "Real houses are made of brick." Houses are now mostly wood. It was interesting to see the change happen - I wonder why? There are certainly enough trees in TN to make houses out of wood. People have been extremely polite on the road. One person stayed behing me for so long I thought I must have a bag open so totally pulled off the road, no he was just being nice and carefull. The grammar is irritatingly poor. Why is it so much more difficult to say, "The road doesn't go there." vs. "The road don't go there." Are we so lazy that one more syllable is really that difficult. I will be in St.Louis tonight and do the touristy stuff tomorrow, along with a real washing of the clothes.
July 13th Tuesday
Arrived in St. Louis on Friday night tofind - no hotel rooms available. I even got laughed at - politely, but laughter just the same. Apparently there are a couple big 'ol conferences in town AND the Chicago Cubs are playing - so major baseball mania. Finally got back on the Metro Link (light rail is really wonderful) and headed west to the airport. On the third try I found a room. I had gotten into town around 5:00pm and landed in my hotel room at 10:30pm. But alas, a shower and a bit of air conditioning and all is good. Did the touristy stuff on Saturday and Sunday - got Lewis & Clark-ed out rode up to the top of the St. Louis Arch and rode around town for a bit.
Monday I left St.Louis - or tried to. Oh my got lost twice, one flat tire, one fall, and three -"You can't get there from here." But finally I managed to get across the Missouri River (the bike lane went on the Interstate - that was exciting). Then eventually through the town of St. Charles and on to the senic by way - where I could finally relax away from the city traffic - ya, think again. For the next 20 miles I don't think I saw a thing except my rearview mirror and all the trucks coming up behind me. They were nice about trying to leave me room but it was awfully stressfull. My bike had been acting a little funny, I had the feeling that I probably had a partial break in the chain. I didn't even want to look as I had no tools to fix it. I got to Elsberry (It looked like a bigger town on the map - it is not) I looked for a bike shop - none to be found. However the nice guys at the auto shop where I stopped dropped everything and came out to help. The pushed and prodded the little link back into place so I could continue on. I rewarded them with a beer run. Finally made it to yet another Clarksville and the traffic had subsided. Mission to make it to Louisiana,MO was happily amended to Not, when I saw a nice road-side park on the river. I travelled 96miles that day and figured I could give myself permission to stop eight miles away from my destination. By not stopping much during the day I got a little bit sunburned - so hiding out today updating my web site in the heat of the day. Please don't make me go back out there. It is 94 humidity 70% so with the heat index = 105.
Today- Tuesday July 13th, I woke up bright and early to get moving. Made it to Louisiana about 6:30am for some juice and a snack and took off for Hannibal, MO. Yes the home town of Tom Sawyer, Huck Finn and all those other characters. This was the most awful 31 mile stretch of road I think I have ever had the pleasure of riding. The hills were never ending. And not like they ever went together so you could rip down one and make it halfway up the other. No the other one was always around the corner, so you didn't even know it was there until you went around the corner and saw this expanse of redtop (it's not black) of course in the sun, going straight up. I swear these people don't have enough hills to know the proper angle they should take. I whimped out quite a bit. It was getiing hot, and the shade was quickly leaving the road. I basically jumped from shade spot to shade spot while going up. I would stop and rest at each shady place, drink my water and wipe the salty sweat from my eyes, nose, chin, ears, and whatever else needed it. As the odometer clicked off the miles I frantically started looking for some sign of a town, where is that watertower. Finally, a big beautiful silver water tower loomed above the hills. ahhhhh, Of course there would be one last hill as you enter town, of course. So I have approximately 20+ miles to go to call the day an end. It is so hot I figured I would try to stay off the road. It is supposed to be at least 10 degress cooler for the rest of the week. I have decided the optimal direction of travel on a bicycle is Southeast, Northwest being the worst choice. If you wait until later in the afternoon for the shade to come onto the road and you are traveling South, the shade will hit around 4:00pm. If you are traveling north then you are on the far side of the road and the shade will hit about the same time the sun goes down. Heading west means you are facing the sun in the afternoon, traveling east means the sun is on your back - much better. Well, off to find a bike shop and get a new chain. This repair job has seen me through about 55 miles. It was 94, but they figure in the heat index here like you would figure in wind chill factor. So, with the humidity/heat index the temperature came out to 105. As far as my body and brain were concerned it was classified as "get the hell out of the sun" weather. So I did. Riding along one of the main streets of Hannibal looking for a bike repair shop I silently said, "I think if I was to pass a motel I would just stop for the day." Well, 10 feet in front of me was a Travel Lodge. I quickly pulled over, fliped out the VISA and threw my bags, my bike, and myself inside. Where I could replace my chain in ownderful air-condiditoning.
Wednesday July 14th. I had the best morning, no DAY. Started out around 5:30am. The morning light just starting to show. The first 10 miles or so I was on a pretty major highway and not having a whole lot of fun. I got off when I came to what looked like a good alternative, HST6 for anyone following with a map. This road was fabulous. The hills were just enough to keep a person from getting board, the drivers were gracious in leaving room, the weather hung around 83 most of the day, and I got to ride through one nice little town after another. There was a head wind/sid wind for most of the day, but ya know, with the teperature being at least 10 degrees cooler than yesterday it just didn't matter. Last night made it to 1000 Hills State Park (99.04miles). Their spaces were terrible for a tent, all slanted. So I just took a trailer site. When the ranger came around I expected him to tell me to move, but I am blessed once again. The space was already paid for, the people had packed up and left a day early.
Thusday July 15th. This morning is another beautiful morning. I took off from the campground around 6:30am, figured I would stop at a local gas station for coffee and some quick food (hwy6 to hwy 149 to hwy136). Well, figure again. Ya know it is important to check the population of these towns before you start to expect much. So, 39 miles later I pull into Unionville for lunch, ah who needs breakfast anyway. Just glad I had water. The country side is beautiful though. Lovely rolling hills, and trees galore. It was great to watch the sun come up through the fog. Not really sue where all those early riser farmers are - I only saw two grandma types out working in their gardens.
Onward ho!!